Choosing The Right Hobby Battery Charger For Your RC Needs

The right RC battery charger is the one that matches your battery's type and cell count. For the NiMH pack that came with a ready-to-run car, that's the G.T. Power N802. For a first 2S or 3S LiPo, the G.T. Power B3. If you own, or will own, more than one kind of battery, skip both and buy one smart charger: the SkyRC S100 Neo. Choosing well matters. As the first version of this guide put it in 2016, it can be the difference between safely charging your battery and catching your shed on fire.

We chose these from what each listing says it charges and what comes in the box. Nobody here has bench-tested them against each other for this guide.

For the NiMH battery that came with your car: G.T. Power N802

Many ready-to-run cars include a trickle charger that takes hours and can't tell when the battery is full. The N802 charges 4 to 8 cell NiMH and NiCd packs at 2 amps, has an LED for charge status and comes with its AC power cord. Here's how to use the N802.

For: anyone running the 7.2 V or 8.4 V NiMH pack their car came with.

Not for: LiPo batteries, ever. If you'd like to choose the charge rate, the SkyRC eN20 does the same job with a 1, 2 or 3 amp switch.

For a first 2S or 3S LiPo: G.T. Power B3

The B3 charges and balances 2S (7.4 V) and 3S (11.1 V) LiPo batteries and nothing else. It plugs into the wall and there are no settings to get wrong. It charges a 2S pack at 1.5 amps and a 3S pack at 1 amp, so it isn't quick: a 5000 mAh 2S pack takes a bit over three hours. Our guide shows how to use the B3.

For: one or two small-to-medium LiPo packs and no interest in menus.

Not for: NiMH, 4S and larger, or big packs you want charged inside an hour. The Atrek B3 is the same kind of charger with the same charge rates. Atrek is our own brand, so weigh that how you like.

One charger for everything: SkyRC S100 Neo

A smart charger does the job of all the others. The S100 Neo charges LiPo, LiFe, Li-ion and LiHV packs from 1S to 6S, NiMH and NiCd from 1 to 15 cells, and lead-acid. Charge current adjusts from 0.1 to 12 amps, up to 200 watts. It runs from a wall socket or from 6 to 30 volts DC, such as a car battery, so it works at home and at the track. The listing includes the charger only, so check you have a charge lead for your battery's plug. New to the menus? Read our smart charger quick start.

For: anyone with both NiMH and LiPo, larger packs, or plans to add batteries. It replaces two to five single-purpose chargers and you only learn one.

Not for: someone who wants to plug in and walk away from settings. You must choose the battery type, cell count and current yourself, and get them right. If 2S to 4S covers you, the SkyRC S65 is the smaller alternative: wall socket only, up to 6 amps, with an XT60 plug built in.

Two batteries at once: SkyRC D200 Neo Duo

The D200 Neo Duo has two independent ports, so two different batteries can charge side by side. It gives 200 watts from a wall socket and more from a DC supply. The listing says charging cables are required and not included.

For: cars that run two packs, or anyone tired of charging in shifts.

Not for: a first charger. The SkyRC T100 is the other dual-port charger we'd look at.

For Spektrum Smart batteries: Spektrum S155

If your batteries are Spektrum Smart G2 packs, the S155 charges and balances them through the one IC3 or IC5 plug, with no balance lead. It has both ports built in, handles up to 4S lithium and 1 to 12 cell NiMH, and comes with its power cord.

For: owners of Smart batteries who want the simplest connection.

Not for: 6S packs, or anyone in a hurry with big batteries: it is a 55 watt charger. The Spektrum S1100 is the 100 watt step up.

The four types of RC battery charger

Trickle chargers

The most basic kind, and the one most often included with a ready-to-run car. A trickle charger suits NiMH or NiCd only and puts out a low current, because it can't tell when the battery is full and never switches off. Work out the time yourself by dividing the battery's capacity by the charger's output: a 2000 mAh battery on a 250 mA charger takes about 8 hours. Then unplug it. Don't trust the light. If a trickle charger has an LED, it normally only shows that a battery is connected, not that it is charging or charged.

Delta-peak chargers

Mainly for NiMH and NiCd. A delta-peak charger detects when the battery is full and stops, so it can charge at a higher current, and its light does mean charged. Some let you pick the current with a switch. It's a good step up from a trickle charger.

Balance chargers

Made for lithium batteries only. A balance charger monitors each cell and keeps them level as it charges. Simple ones are fixed to certain cell counts, such as 2S and 3S. Lithium batteries can't shed an overcharge as heat the way NiMH can. Overcharged, they are badly damaged at the very least, and at worst they catch fire, which is why a LiPo must never go on a NiMH charger.

Smart chargers

A smart charger handles several battery types across a wide range of voltages and currents, with separate modes for charge, balance charge, storage charge and discharge. Many share the same four-button layout, so once you've learned one you can use most of them.

Four things to check on any charger

• Battery type. Make sure your battery's chemistry is listed as compatible. Not sure which you have? See NiMH vs LiPo.

• Maximum voltage or cell count. A charger rated for 7.4 V batteries is useless for an 11.1 V one.

• Charging current. This sets the charge time.

• Input power. Some chargers run only from 12 V DC, such as a car battery, and not from a wall socket. If a charger is DC-only, you also need a power supply.

Charging is the most hazardous part of the hobby. With the right charger and a bit of care it is also routine. Browse all RC battery chargers, or if a pack won't charge, see LiPo battery not charging.